Monday, August 17, 2009

Skerries Lighthouse, Holyhead Bay, Coastal Navigator and Bird Sanctuary

By David Phillips

Most sailors who sail the Irish Sea are familiar with Skerries Lighthouse in Holyhead Bay, off the North West coast of Anglesey in Wales. Whichever route their yacht takes, either from Dublin, Pwllheli or Western Scotland, the isolated Skerries Rock and lighthouse soon appear in their sights. From as far as 22 miles distance mariners can see the white flashing light from the 23 metre high automated light now owned by Trinity House.

And Skerries rock is also home to one of the largest tern colonies in the world, which are monitored by the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB) who occasionally send a team out to the rock. But just go back over 200 years in history and there was barely any navigational help on this treacherous Anglesey coast. Then in 1713 Irishman William Trench took out a 99 year lease on the rock from local landowner William Robinson, and events soon took on a new dynamic.

A big challenge lay ahead but undaunted William Trench set about building the very first lighthouse on Skerries rock, and in 1716 his efforts were rewarded when the lights on. For sure it was not as powerful as current lamps, but the 35 feet high tower had an open grate and a flame produced by burning coal. The enterprising Mr Trench exploited this valuable service by charging passing ships a fee based on tonnage, except for the British Navy.

In 1730 these levies were as much as around $2,200 every year (1=$2), a huge sum in those days. The fees continued to rise over the following years so that by 1828 the income was a massive $23,000. There was a change in ownership during this time and eventually the Trinity House bought the Skerries Lighthouse freehold for a staggering 445,000 ($990,000) in 1841.

It is a major navigational challenge for yachtsmen to sail through the Langdon Ridge, between Skerries Rock and Carmel Head on Anglesey, even at the best of times. Many sailors decide not to sail through Langdon Ridge at night as the tidal currents are so strong and the rocks not far away. With a full flood tide sweeping up behind you from Holyhead Bay you can progress quickly over the land passing Cemlyn Nature Reserve and Wylfa Nuclear Power Station nearby. This tidal asset has led to a strong interest in developing a tidal power lagoon using latest underwater turbine technology.

It's fantastic sailing around the Anglesey coast. Either from a boat or the coastal path you can appreciate rich and diverse marine wildlife - razorbills, porpoises, seals, and puffins. As you pass Skerries just imagine the efforts of young Trench, and the ships since saved by the reassuring presence of these Anglesey Lighthouses. A flotilla of kayaks can sometimes be seen leaving Church Bay on an expedition to Skerries lighthouse. They need to get the tide and wind right to avoid being carried way off course.

So from the time of William Trench over 250 years ago, Skerries lighthouse has had a very interesting history. It has seen the age of sail give way to the age of steam, seen ships wrecked off the coast and played a major role in serving the maritime community. It hosts a bird colony of great interest and receives occasional yacht and kayak visitors. It deserves its place in the hall of fame of Anglesey Lighthouses.

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